So far the changes are planned to be:
- Replace the 10” woofers with DVC 12” Boss NX12FD Onyx Subwoofers
- Replace the Optimus crossover with a SSL SX310 3 way crossover
- Replace the remaining 2 Eq/Amps with:
- JBL GTE422 4 channel EQ
- Lanzar or maybe a JBL GTX47 Active crossover / Line driver
- 4 channel Boss Riot 100x4 amp
- 2 channel Boss Riot 100x2 amp
- Replace the Piezo tweeters with a couple Beston Ribbon Tweeters
- Replace the Taurus Speakers
- Replace the 6” Pioneer speakers (and finish putting in the other two in the other side)
- Add a couple good tweeters to the front pillars
- Re-organize the wiring nightmare in the right rear quarter
- Add lots of sound deadener
I want to connect the front Alpines, the replacements for the Taurus speakers, and the 4 speakers in the front of the rear wheel wells to the new amps running off the JBL EQ and the new crossover. These will run off the deck speaker level outs, and be fader friendly. The current 110 watt amp will connect to the same crossover on a rear channel for the 6” in the rear pillar. (Right now it is running off the front of the SSL crossover) I have to check all the ohm values to make this work since there will be more than 1 speaker on some channels. I have all the speaker wires and amplifier outputs, as well as the deck speaker level outputs run to the right rear quarter panel right now, on a labeled board so I can swap around speakers on amps easy. (that’s why it is such a mess back there; just figure 18 sets of speaker wires and all the amp and deck connections)
I’m also not ruling out the possibility of using some passive crossover setups to run component sets of drivers and tweeters. This would be easy to do back at the connection board. Just test different caps and coils to get what I want. Basically the 12’s, and 8’s will be run off the line outs from the deck, and see if I can connect the Ribbon tweeters in the rear off the SSL crossover with a small amp as well. If I an run all the rest of the rear pillar speakers and center speakers (in front of the rear wheel wells) from the rear channels of the new Eq / crossover set, and run the small front door speakers and dash and front pillar tweeters off the front so the fader on the deck works proper. Then I will also have the remote bass controls for the 12’s and 8’s to add to the front so I can have a little more control up front.
In a perfect world I would be putting a couple 15” Earthquake SWS subs in the two slider doors, but that’s too much money, and too much extra hardware to hide. (I was planning to add a couple extra mids and tweeters in there as well which would mean 2 more (passive) crossovers, and 2 more amps mounted in the doors, and the contacts for the door wiring) yea, maybe later. The amps need to be in the door so the power gets cut off when the door is opened, otherwise the drivers get disconnected, and the amp has no load, but is still running.
There was also the option of putting the same setup in the rear door, but there is a lot going on there as well, taking off the cover revealed a lot of stuff to deal with, but the amps and all could be mounted anywhere then; no slider to deal with.